Two Days in Miami: My Ultimate City Guide
I am my father’s daughter. Why, you ask? Because just three days before the start of the year, Popsy suggested we book a spontaneous 2 days in Miami to ring in 2020 in style.
We blinked. And then immediately packed our weekend bags, loaded up the car with the essentials (beer, tortilla chips and salsa, if you’re wondering) and commenced our Miami road trip to finish off the year in the Magic City.
Having spent the bulk of my childhood in Florida (Tampa to be precise), Miami has never really topped my bucket list. At the risk of sounding a bit spoilt by a life spent in the Sunshine State, Miami was always just a stickier, sweatier version of home - but with better looking people (and much bigger biceps) on its beaches. At least so said my teenage lens.
However, this thirty-something return visitor was well and truly charmed by Miami’s magic. In so many surprise ways. In fact, I simply couldn’t get enough of the city’s candy-colours (spotted in its architecture, food and sunsets), its new hipster energy and its Latin-infused well - everything.
So to honour my newfound love for Florida’s famed city, I bring you my ultimate city guide and Miami itinerary so your 48 hours in this Tropicana town are just as good. And yes, I know. There are a million Miami blogs already, but I promise there’s only one with a Beauty Backpacker twist.
Miami itinerary: Day one late afternoon / evening arrival:
Since we drove down from Tampa, we arrived in the city late afternoon, giving us just enough time to drop our bags and settle into our Miami hotel (one of my many recommendations below) before heading to South Beach just ahead of Golden Hour. If you arrive early enough on your first day, I recommend you do the same, and get into the Miami Vice spirit straight away.
Thankfully, the parking gods were looking after us. We found a metered parking spot just off Ocean Drive which we locked in for the evening for around $15. However, a word of (travel) advice: if you hire a car in Miami, you’ll spend a pretty penny on parking. So if you’re not on a Miami road trip like us, use ubers and bike hires to save and have more flexibility too.
With our Miami trip officially in motion, we commenced our self-guided tour of the city’s Art Deco District. As the family nerd, I took responsibility for Googling the facts on every retro building that caught our eye along Miami’s main art-deco streets: Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue and Lincoln Road.
But if you’re after something a little more official, I highly recommend booking a walking tour with the Miami Design Preservation League. As the name suggests, this organisation looks after Miami’s historic architectural wonders. A tour will cost you $30, requires no advance bookings and runs daily at 10.30am (and 6.30pm on Thursdays). But even if you skip the tour, drop into their shop on Ocean Drive. It’s the perfect place to find your Miami souvenir. I bought a cool art print, from the Miami Art Deco Fair, that will soon be hanging in my kitchen.
As the sun starts to set, cross over to the South Beach strip to mingle with the skaters, cyclists and sunbathers making the most of a balmy Miami evening. We did this just in time to spot a massive double (yes, double) rainbow glistening in the horizon. I literally sprinted my way towards the sand to capture it before it faded. Naturally, the camera didn’t quite do it justice so - for once - I put it down and watched the pastel tones coat the evening sky instead.
But if you don’t get to South Beach on arrival, pick another day to watch the day dip into night(life) on Miami’s most famous strip. It’s an experience not to be missed.
Miami itinerary / Day one: evening + night
Meanwhile, back on Ocean Drive, life was picking up. Bad Bunny was bumping from every speaker and canary-yellow margaritas where cropping up at every bar.
Given I was with my folks, this wasn’t going to be a party night for the history books. But no complaints, because we headed to another Miami hotspot instead: Little Havana. If you too can peel yourself from South Beach’s party vibes (it ain’t easy), then head over to Miami’s most renowned cultural neighbourhood for a stroll and a classic Cuban meal to cap off your first night in town.
Little Havana has been around since the 1960s, when Cuban emigres settled in Miami after Castro’s conquering of Cuba. What was once a largely Anglo-Jewish neighbourhood blossomed into a lively Latin quarter, filling with mami-and-papi shops selling cigars, cafe con leche and my absolute favourite: the Cubano (Cuban sandwich). Today, the neighbourhood houses a large Central American community and retains its dynamic Latin energy. Calle Ocho - the neighbourhood’s high street and home to one of the world’s largest street festivals - is the place to spend your evening. In 1988, the Calle Ocho Festival held the World Record for the world's longest conga line. So yea - it’s basically my kind of place.
You can also take a peek into Dominos Park, where the local retirees play the tiles every afternoon. Or walk in the footsteps of your favourite Latin idols on Calle Ocho’s Walk of Fame, which celebrates all of Latin America’s biggest stars. Gloria Estefan! Celia Cruz! Thalia! Then take your pick from the countless Little Havana restaurants and sample classic Cuban rice and beans alongside a Palomilla steak (topped with sautéed onions and soaked in lime juice) before stopping into Azucar for ice cream with a Latin twist. I suggest you go all in and try the guava, tres leches or café (which is laced with coffee grinds).
And if you simply can’t resist a night out, then drop in for a nightcap at Ball and Chain, Little Havana’s most legendary bar, where Nat King Cole and Ella Fitzgerald once performed. Order a mojito and stay for the live music, salsa lessons and more.
Miami Itinerary / Day two: morning
Start your day with a traditional Cuban breakfast. You’ll have your pick from countless options throughout the city, but we did our research (thanks to my little brother, a true foodie) and found a reputable Cuban chain not to far from our hotel: Latin Cafe 2000. I ordered a Cuban breakfast, which comes with two quintessential elements: cafe con leche (with the coffee and milk served separately so you can blend as you wish) and tostadas (warm Cuban bread soaked in butter, sliced ultra-thin and made perfect for coffee-dipping). All this alongside my fried eggs for the day’s fuel. Just bear in mind that Cuban coffee is not for the faint of heart. That sh*t is stong, so prepare yourself for a serious buzz and plan for an active day.
Miami itinerary / Day two: morning + early afternoon
Wynwood is why I was so keen for our last-minute Miami road trip. A die-hard street art lover and (not so closet) hipster, I knew this recently revived neighbourhood and Miami graffiti district would be completely up my street. Beautiful murals, delicious coffee (yes, I can handle an abnormal amount of strong coffee) and craft beer. Literally everything this girl could ask for. And Wynwood delivered.
This vibrant district has had a history of highs and lows. Once a middle-class neighbourhood in the 1950s, Wynwood became an immigrant hub when the city’s new interstate moved in, before turning its hand as Miami’s garment district, but eventually deteriorating to drugs, gangs and violence in the 1980s. Then came the influx of artists and designers seeking low rent - oh, that classic harbinger of gentrification - which alongside other factors resulted in Wynwood’s Noughties revival. Today it’s a thriving arts hub, but if you wander far enough, it’s still held on to its rough edges. Exactly how I like it.
If you arrive in Wynwood by car, bite the bullet and pay for day parking so you don’t have to fuss over the metre and can truly savour things at a slow pace. The neighbourhood is brimming with street art - not just within the perimetre of the Wynwood Walls (the official Wynwood Miami art walk and street art installation) but along every side-street and corner. And it’s free. So take your time find your favourites. And don’t forget to pop into the countless cool boutiques and shops along the way. I particularly loved frangipani, a highly curated design and curios shop with pieces as colourful as my Instagram grid.
And when you can’t take the heat, pop into Panther Coffee (voted Miami’s best coffee shop) and cool off with a cold brew. Or, if you’re feeling peckish, stop at one of the best Wynwood Miami restaurants, Coyo Taco, for a taco plate. If you’re in town on a Tuesday, save your appetite for Taco Tuesday at Wood Tavern. I’ve heard incredible things and was gutted to find out it was closed due to new year celebrations, as I’d designed our entire day around it. But if there’s anything I’ve learned from living a life of travel, it’s to go with the flow and keep on making lemonade.
So instead, we stopped for beers at J. Wakefield Brewing and - oh my word - you should too. Wynwood’s most famous bar is probably Gramps, and though I don’t discourage a pitstop there too, make sure to top it off with few brews at JWB, only a stone’s throw away. This eccentric, Star Wars-themed venue does some seriously good IPAs. All “Made is Dade,” as the glasses proclaim, and all seriously delicious.
So delicious I couldn’t have just one, which made for a rather tipsy walk to our next Miami stop - the Design District. Don’t try this at home, kids.
The Design District is the high-end Miami of glossy magazines, home to the likes of Tom Ford, Fendi and Louis V. But also to Miami’s hip modern art museum, Institute of Contemporary Art or ICA as the locals know it, and myriad design and architecture studios. Go for the shopping (if you’re one of the lucky 1% not to be priced out, lolz) or just for a taste of Miami’s gloss. You’ll likely stumble across some pretty cool art installations, like Mexican' artist Fernando LaPosse’s pink hammocks, which provided a nice respite for my 20k-step-count feet.
At this stage you’ll be famished. Consider sampling the Design District’s outpost of Bodega, Miami’s renowned taco hotspot (the original is located in Little Havana). This is food truck cuisine at its finest. Otherwise, head back into town to sample a meal at one of Miami’s Bon Appetit-recommended restaurants, such as high-end La Mar, delicious grab-and-go Doggi’s Arepas or healthy, Mexican-infused My Ceviche.
Miami itinerary / Day three: morning
Finish off your Miami holiday enjoying what Miami does best: sunshine. Head back to South Beach for a cycle, a sunbathe and a swim. Or simply enjoy the sun poolside at your hotel. Since we planned a relatively early return drive back to Tampa, we hit the pool early, ordered in Cuban sandwiches (by which I mean had our amazing parents kindly deliver fresh Cuban sandwiches to our chaise longes) and read under Florida’s rays. In fact, this was how I inaugurated 2020 and it was seriously one of best New Year’s Days I’ve ever had. Though I’m sure no matter when you book your Miami holiday, this is the right way to finish it off: soaking in the sunshine and ensuring your holiday glow lasts just that little bit longer.
Miami / Where to Sleep
Doubletree Doral Miami: If you hire a car, this is a great option. It’s an easy drive to the city centre but more affordable due to its distance from South Beach. Plus, it’s only recently opened so very brand spanking new.
The Julia Miami: If the only way is boutique, then reserve two nights at the Julia. This is quirky and quaint at its best, but with a Miami twist.
Leslie Hotel: For the full art deco experience, check into the Leslie, which in just minutes away from South Beach and comes with all the candy colours you’d expect from Miami.
Freehand Miami: This one’s for those who can never get enough of those true traveller vibes. Stay here to feel like a backpacker by the beach.
Four Seasons Miami: If you can’t do anything less than luxe, and you want to live like the Miami glamourati.
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