Bansko, Bulgaria: The Perfect Ski Holiday for Beginners
[AD] This post includes gifted accommodation but all words, photography and views are my own.
Frustrated, legs splayed out in the snow and with tears in my eyes, I turned to my new friend Dave and said, “I don’t think I can make it.” Why (oh why) had I - a self-proclaimed water baby from Florida - decided it would be a good idea to book a Bansko ski holiday and then tackle the snow road back into town on my second ever day of skiing?
“Well, it’s up to you Yari, absolutely no pressure. You can take off your skis and we’ll just walk down together.” I stood in silence, trying my hardest to hold it together. It didn’t help that Dave was cute, and a seriously good skier too.
Sigh. What to do? Give up (which surely my aching legs would be grateful for), or push through the fear and try and make it down before darkness set in?
After what felt like eons and a tornado of thoughts whirring through my head, I finally mustered up the courage to stand back up in my skis and keep on going. And - miraculously - a few short minutes later, I found myself gliding (if ever so slowly) down the mountain, making fearless turns in the dusty snow as a burnt orange tone began to puncture the evening sky.
But let me rewind a bit shall I? And tell you exactly how I ended up on this Bansko holiday as a first-time skier in the first place. And why it so quickly became one of my most memorable travel adventures. One good enough to write home about. Or rather, write my latest blog post about, to encourage fellow ski first-timers and heights-dodgers to take the plunge and give skiing a go in Bansko.
So it all began when my blogging bestie The Smiling Food Journal invited me along for a trip in partnership with Snomads, a fantastic set of Bansko ski chalets based in the heart of Bansko’s Old Town, just a few minutes drive from the foot of Bulgaria’s Pirin mountain. Never one to say no to a challenge (for proof, please refer to blogs on trekking through the Amazon, hiking Peru’s Rainbow Mountain and solo safari-ing through the Masai Mara), I said yes without blinking a eye. But also without thinking about my lack of winter sports experience - or much more importantly - my fear of heights. And so before I knew it, I was on a flight from London to Bansko and unpacking my backpack at the cozy Snomads Prince chalet that I would be calling home for the next week.
Why a Bansko Skiing Holiday is Ideal for Beginners
Only weeks before, I had no idea that Bansko is in fact one of Bulgaria’s most popular ski destinations, and a relatively easy drive from the Bulgarian capital of Sofia. Locals frequent Bansko’s slopes during peak Bulgarian ski season but it’s also popular for Europeans thanks to its proximity and affordability. In comparison with other top European ski resorts, Bulgaria is a relatively cheap skiing destination, which makes Bansko the ideal skiing holiday for beginners who are keen to dip their toes in but don’t particularly want to spend a fortune on their first go.
Bansko Ski Holiday: How Much Does it Cost
A week of skiing in Bansko will set you back approximately £700-£800. This includes a one-week stay at a brilliant Bansko ski chalet such as Snomads (which includes your Bansko accommodation as well as a homemade breakfast and three-course dinner on the daily) for an average of £300, your Bansko ski pass (which - for the uninitiated - gets you unlimited access to the mountain for the duration of your stay) at £170, your ski rental for six days (which includes your skis, ski boots, poles and helmet) at £105, and daily Bansko ski lessons (3 days at £70 or a full week at £105). This total also factors in lunch on the mountain, and all the beers you’ll want to drink when it’s finally time to indulge in aprés ski, but all things considered, Bansko makes for a very affordable option for a newbie skier.
Of course you have the choice to book all of the above individually (from your flights to Bansko through to your ski lessons at a Bansko ski school) but the perk of booking with a Bansko chalet is that everything gets organised on your behalf and you benefit from their partner discounts. And as clueless first-timer with very little idea of what I needed to do or buy, I was happy for all the help I could get.
Bansko Ski Holiday for Beginners: What to Expect
Now, a word of caution: be sure to get a good night’s sleep your first night in town, because things kick off with a bang. This is not your sun-lounger sort of holiday. I was up at 7.30am my first morning. Very sleepily, I made my way down for a Snomads breakfast of baked treats, fresh fruit and - my ultimate saviour - strong black coffee. Once fully fuelled, our ski group headed up to the mountain via the uber-retro Snomads van (it’s literally an old converted Soviet truck) and straight to the ski rental shop to pick up our ski equipment for the week. There, the staff kitted me out in all my gear, helped me clip up my ski boots (which is honestly a workout in and of itself) and taught me how to best hold my skis so as to not instantly fall over. If you’re a fellow newbie, ask for advice from anyone and everyone to help you get your bearings, as even the most basic of tasks feel completely over your head at the start. This is no exaggeration. I dare you not to fall the first time you walk in those heavy ski boots.
Clumsily, I made my way over to the lift for the Bansko gondola which takes you to the top of Pirin mountain. The daily gondola ride was probably one of the highlights of my days in Bansko. Though its no easy feat tapping in with your Bansko lift pass and awkwardly slipping through the turnstiles in those damn ski boots, only to then jump onto a moving gondola and stack your skis on the racks. But if you make it (kidding - once you make it), you’ll be able to enjoy beautiful morning views of snowcapped mountains and fir trees whilst you chat with your fellow ski bunnies on the 30-minute journey to the top. Just be prepared for the slow gondola queues during peak Bansko ski session, unless you’re willing to get there at the crack of dawn to avoid the crowds.
If it’s your first time skiing, I also highly recommend you book yourself onto a few ski lessons, if not for the full week, then at the very least your first few days. The instructors and ski schools all linger at the base of the mountain with their brightly-coloured flags so each Bansko ski school is easy spot upon arrival. I booked lessons for my first few days but I could have certainly benefitted from a few more.
I did pick up the basics though: snow plough (aka the pizza, which was my signature move because it keeps you from falling over when you’re worked yourself into a panic because you think you’re flying downhill), how to break, how to get up after a fall and right and lefthand turns. After your morning ski lessons, you’re then free to roam the mountain as you please. I took it slowly, taking on the baby slopes and button lifts to slowly build my confidence on skis. That is until I convinced myself I was ready for the snow road (a blue run) much sooner than I actually was. I blame it on the Bansko aprés ski, which probably made me a little overconfident. Though I’ll admit it was a proud, top-of-the-world moment when I finally made it, legs shaking in exhaustion, to the bottom.
Of course depending on how quickly you build your confidence, Bansko offers a range of slopes for both beginner and intermediate skiers. There are 75km of slopes and 13 lifts, which a nice mix of green, blue, red and black runs. So as you improve, you’ll certainly have the option to take on more difficult slopes. But even if you don’t dare, brave the ski lifts and take them up and around the mountain, simply to enjoy the views and the quietude of the mountain as you get nearer and nearer the top.
But now - let’s talk aprés ski shall we? Because - honestly - how have I missed out on this epic travel experience for so many years? There is absolutely nothing better than that moment when you shake off the snow, unclip your boots from your skis and clomp your way over to that retro Bansko circus tent to order yourself a large local beer. Then it’s over to one of the wooden long tables, where you’ll fight for a seat in the sunshine just so you can feel that heat on your cheeks. I’ve been on many a tropical holiday and I can assure you absolutely nothing compares to the sun reflecting off the snowy slopes, warming you up after a chilly ski run. Just remember to pack loads of SPF in your daypack, because ski sunburns are no joke. And expect a lot of very unusual tan lines thanks to your sunnies and a much-needed ski beanie.
But despite the sheer magic of Bansko aprés ski, I have to admit that the long evenings were my favourite part of my Bulgarian ski trip. Shattered but happy, you head back to your chalet for a pre-dinner snooze and a fresh change of clothes. And that’s when the fun really begins. Every evening, Snomads prepared an epic vegan three-course dinner, fused with fresh, local Bulgarian ingredients. And sitting round the table with your new ski family sharing a hearty meal and free-flowing local Bulgarian wine is enough to warm even the Grinch-iest of hearts. Every night, we regaled each other with stories of our most embarrassing falls, the very best slopes and our ambitions for the next day. All before heading out for a bit of Bansko nightlife, which consists mostly of a bunch of cheesy (but seriously fun) bars where you dance the night away to Noughties pop tunes. And on the days when you’re simply too tired to leave the chalet, you can cozy up at the Snomads lounge with a few board games or Nintendo or just snuggle up with a good book.
Bansko Ski Holiday: What to Do in Bansko That Doesn’t Involve Skis
But beyond skiing, there are plenty of other great things to do in Bansko if (like me) you find your legs need a break from the Bansko ski slopes. Bansko Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as soon as you hit its charming cobblestoned streets you’ll understand why. It’s small, quaint and very easy to explore on foot. If you have an afternoon to spare, book yourself onto the free Bansko walking tour and learn about the city’s rich history and drop into Bansko’s top landmarks such as the Trinity Holy Church.
Whatever you do, make sure you work up an appetite so you can sample the fare at a local mehana (a traditional Bulgarian restaurant). Don’t leave without trying Bulgarian sausages blended with herbs, goat’s cheese and walnuts drizzled with honey and the classic Bulgarian Lozovi Sarmi (grape leaves stuffed with rice and minced meat). And finish off the afternoon with a visit to a traditional Bulgarian pharmacy where you can sample the countless beauty products infused with local Bulgarian rose.
How to Get to Bansko
Bansko is a relatively quick trip from London. You can book a direct flight to Sofia with most low-cost airlines. If you’re booked with a chalet like Snomads, you’ll also have a Bansko airport transfer that will drive you straight to your accommodation. Otherwise you can hire a car for the duration of your stay, which will typically cost you around £10-15 per day. You can also take public transport from Sophia to Bansko (both the train and the bus), but bear in mind they will have more restricted timetables so better to catch an early morning flight or plan your arrival around their schedules.
Best Time to Visit Bansko
Peak ski season is similar to other parts of Europe, with things kicking off in November until the season slows in March. The best Bansko snow is likely to be at the height of the season, but this is also when you’ll find the most crowds. IMHO, I’m recommend visiting during the tail-end of the season if you’re a beginner, as there will be fewer people on the slopes, which I found that little bit easier to help me get my bearings and keep me alive on the slopes.
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